Snow, Ice & Mixed Routes
Written whilst imprisoned during the last world war, WH Murray’s “Mountaineering in Scotland” is a terrible book.
It’s terribly exciting.
It’s terribly passionate.
And it’s dangerously inspiring whatever age you discover it.
Whenever climbers you meet abroad understand you’ve been tramping in Scotland, do they ask you to confirm some foggy half-remembered detail about these Highlands too? Tower Ridge and Point 5 Gully continue to enthrall mountaineers in greater numbers each year.
I’ve always got time for greybeards! My companions in these mountains invariably pepper the vast gaps in my education with their reflections each season.
Intermediate to advanced level courses introduce a progression of classic routes as conditions allow. If you have no previous experience of scottish winter climbing please consider an introductory course this year .
Murray’s friend Dr Jimmy Bell, along with Graham MacPhee were the last guidebook editors to repeat every route on Ben Nevis. Even the incomparable Jimmy Marshall found conditions too variable to safely repeat every line, as each year ice builds well in different places. Have you ever wondered what Con Higgins’ ice or mixed routes of the last forty years must have felt like? What inspiration struck Nicholson in the early 70’s after which the Nevis pyschosphere was never quite the same? How is Perroux’s joie de vivre still repeated for countless visitors? And will I ever cherish an indelible memory from one of Richardson’s mixed test-pieces?